When a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) outlet won’t reset, the issue typically stems from power supply problems, wiring faults, or a malfunctioning outlet itself. Start by verifying that the circuit breaker hasn’t tripped—reset it if necessary—and ensure the GFCI is receiving power by testing nearby outlets or lights on the same circuit. If the breaker is fine, unplug all devices from the GFCI and any connected outlets, then press the reset button firmly. Many GFCIs fail to reset due to overloaded circuits, faulty appliances, or moisture exposure, particularly in kitchens, bathrooms, or outdoor areas. For persistent issues, inspect the outlet’s wiring connections, especially the "LOAD" terminals, as loose or damaged wires are common culprits. If these steps don’t resolve the problem, the GFCI may be defective and require replacement, particularly if it’s over 10–15 years old.

• First steps: Check the circuit breaker and unplug all devices before attempting to reset the GFCI ^[1][8].
• Common causes: Loose wiring, faulty appliances, moisture, or an expired GFCI (lifespan ~10–15 years) ^[4][7].
• Advanced troubleshooting: Disconnect "LOAD" wires to isolate the issue—if the GFCI resets without them, the problem lies downstream ^[2][3].
• When to call a professional: If the outlet still won’t reset after basic checks, or if you suspect wiring damage, consult an electrician ^[9][10].

Troubleshooting and Fixing a GFCI Outlet That Won’t Reset

Basic Checks and Immediate Solutions

Before diving into complex repairs, perform these foundational checks to rule out simple issues. GFCIs are designed to trip for safety, so start by eliminating obvious triggers. Power supply problems and overloaded circuits account for the majority of reset failures, and these steps require no specialized tools.

Begin by confirming the GFCI has power. Press the "TEST" button—if the outlet doesn’t click or the indicator light doesn’t change, the outlet may not be receiving electricity. Check the circuit breaker panel for a tripped breaker; even if it appears "on," toggle it fully to "OFF" and back to "ON" to ensure a proper reset. If other outlets or lights on the same circuit are also dead, the issue likely originates at the breaker ^[1][8]. Next, unplug all devices from the GFCI and any outlets connected to its "LOAD" terminals. Faulty appliances—especially those with heating elements like hair dryers or toasters—can cause ground faults that prevent resetting. Even a single defective device can trip the entire circuit ^[7].

• Verify power supply:
• Test nearby outlets or lights on the same circuit to confirm power is reaching the GFCI ^[1].
• Reset the circuit breaker even if it doesn’t appear tripped—sometimes breakers fail to visually indicate a trip ^[8].
• Unplug all devices:
• Disconnect every appliance from the GFCI and downstream outlets before attempting to reset ^[7].
• Plug devices back in one at a time to identify a faulty appliance triggering the trip ^[4].
• Press the reset button firmly:
• Some GFCIs require a strong, deliberate press—don’t assume it’s broken if the button feels stiff ^[7].
• Listen for an audible click, which confirms the reset mechanism engaged ^[9].
• Check for moisture or dust:
• In bathrooms, kitchens, or outdoor locations, moisture can cause false trips. Dry the outlet with a towel if safe to do so ^[9].
• Dust accumulation in garages or basements may also interfere with the reset mechanism ^[5].

If these steps fail, the problem likely involves wiring or the GFCI itself. Proceed to deeper diagnostics only after ruling out power supply and appliance issues.

Advanced Diagnostics: Wiring and Outlet Inspection

When basic troubleshooting doesn’t resolve the issue, the problem often lies in the wiring connections or a faulty GFCI outlet. This section requires turning off the circuit breaker and, if comfortable, removing the GFCI from the wall box. Always shut off power at the breaker before handling wires. Use a non-contact voltage tester to confirm the circuit is dead before proceeding.

Start by examining the GFCI’s wiring connections. Loose or corroded wires at the "LINE" or "LOAD" terminals are frequent causes of reset failures. The "LINE" terminals connect to the power source, while "LOAD" terminals feed downstream outlets. If the GFCI resets after disconnecting the "LOAD" wires, the issue is with the downstream wiring or outlets ^[2][3]. In one demonstrated case, a faulty downstream receptacle caused the GFCI to refuse reset until the receptacle was replaced ^[2]. Inspect the wires for:

• Burn marks or melted insulation, indicating overheating ^[2].
• Loose terminal screws—tighten them securely with a screwdriver ^[4].
• Corrosion or greenish discoloration on copper wires, which suggests moisture damage ^[5].

If the GFCI still won’t reset after verifying the wiring, the outlet itself may be defective. GFCIs have a typical lifespan of 10–15 years; older units can fail internally even if they appear intact ^[4][7]. Test the GFCI with a dedicated GFCI tester (available at hardware stores) to confirm it’s functioning. These testers simulate a ground fault and verify the outlet’s ability to trip and reset. If the tester indicates a fault or the outlet fails to trip when tested, replacement is necessary ^[5].

• Isolate the GFCI:
• Turn off the breaker and remove the GFCI from the wall box.
• Disconnect the "LOAD" wires (if present) and attempt to reset the GFCI without them ^[3].
• If it resets, the problem is downstream; if not, the GFCI or "LINE" wiring is faulty ^[2].
• Inspect for physical damage:
• Look for scorch marks on the outlet’s back or terminals, which indicate overheating ^[2].
• Check for swollen or discolored plastic housing—a sign of internal failure ^[4].
• Test with a GFCI tester:
• Plug the tester into the outlet and press its "TEST" button. A functional GFCI will trip and should reset afterward ^[5].
• If the tester shows an "open ground" or "reverse polarity" error, the wiring is incorrect and requires professional attention ^[5].
• Consider age and environment:
• Replace GFCIs older than 10 years, as their sensitivity degrades over time ^[4].
• Outlets in high-moisture areas (e.g., near sinks or outdoors) may require more frequent replacement ^[9].

If these steps don’t resolve the issue—or if you’re uncomfortable handling electrical wiring—contact a licensed electrician. Persistent problems may indicate deeper circuit issues, such as a ground fault in the wiring or an overloaded neutral, which are hazardous to diagnose without professional tools ^[6][10].