Weathering miniatures transforms pristine models into battle-worn, realistic pieces by simulating wear, dirt, and environmental damage. The process combines techniques like chipping, rusting, and dust application to create depth and narrative. Core methods include sponge chipping for armor damage, oil washes for grime, and dry pigments for dust effects, with each technique requiring specific materials like thinned paints, technical washes, or specialized pigments. Beginners can start with simple sponge stippling for chipped paint, while advanced hobbyists layer multiple effects—such as rust streaks followed by mud splatter—to achieve hyper-realistic results. The key is experimentation: testing color combinations, application pressures, and product interactions on scrap models before committing to a final piece.

• Essential techniques: Sponge chipping, oil washes, dry pigments, and streaking grime ^[2]
• Recommended materials: Thinned acrylics, chipping mediums, Nihilakh Oxide (for verdigris), and Typhus Corrosion (for rust) ^[4]
• Process flow: Start with base damage (chips/scratches), add environmental effects (dust/mud), then refine with details like rust streaks ^[5]
• Common pitfall: Over-weathering; subtlety often yields more realistic results than excessive layering ^[9]

Practical Weathering Methods for Miniatures

Core Techniques and Step-by-Step Application

Weathering begins with understanding the model’s "story"—whether it’s a mud-splattered tank or a rusted sci-fi mech. The most accessible starting point is sponge chipping, which mimics scratched or flaked paint. Cut a small piece of household sponge, grip it with tweezers, and dab it into thinned paint (e.g., Rhinox Hide for dark chips or Ushabti Bone for lighter damage) ^[1]. Press the sponge lightly onto edges and high-wear areas like joints or armor plates, varying pressure for natural irregularity. For finer control, use a stiff brush to stipple paint onto corners ^[5]. This method works equally well for fantasy armor and military vehicles, though the color palette differs: metallics (Scale 75) for exposed metal, or browns/blacks for dirt accumulation ^[8].

For rust and corrosion, apply technical paints like Typhus Corrosion in thin layers, focusing on recessed areas and metal edges where moisture would collect ^[4]. Enhance the effect by:

• Adding a wash of Nihilakh Oxide over copper/bronze parts to create verdigris ^[4]
• Drybrushing orange or brown pigments (e.g., Vallejo Rust Texture) onto rusted spots for texture ^[3]
• Using a damp brush to streak rust downward from horizontal surfaces, simulating rain runoff ^[5]

1. Load a soft brush with pigment (e.g., ochre or light brown) and tap it onto the model.
2. Fix the pigment with mineral spirits or a matte varnish to prevent smudging ^[5].

For grime, mix oil paints (e.g., burnt umber) with thinner and apply to crevices, then wipe excess with a cotton swab to leave streaks ^[7]. This technique excels on vehicles, where dirt accumulates in panel lines and around hatches.

Advanced Layering and Common Mistakes

Advanced weathering involves sequential layering to build realism. Start with structural damage (chips/scratches), then add environmental effects (dust/mud), and finish with fine details like oil stains or water streaks ^[6]. For example:

• Mud effects: Apply a base of brown paint, then highlight with lighter mud colors while wet to create texture. Use a toothpick to carve tire tracks or splatter patterns ^[5].
• Oil stains: Dab gloss varnish mixed with black paint around engines or fuel caps, then blend edges with a damp brush ^[7].
• Algae/mold: Stipple green or blue-green washes onto damp areas (e.g., under vehicle chassis) and seal with gloss varnish for a wet look ^[5].

A critical error is over-weathering, where excessive effects obscure the model’s details or appear unrealistic. Moderation is key:

• Reference real-life examples: Study photos of weathered tanks or armor to gauge appropriate damage levels ^[9].
• Work in stages: Complete one effect (e.g., chipping) and varnish it before adding another (e.g., dust) to avoid muddying colors ^[6].
• Test on spares: Practice techniques on unused miniatures or scrap parts to refine pressure and color mixes ^[2].

• Acrylics: Ideal for chipping and base weathering (e.g., Citadel paints).
• Oils: Best for gradual blends and streaking (e.g., Winsor & Newton artists’ oils).
• Pigments: Provide matte, realistic dust but need fixing with varnish ^[5].