Painting miniature armor and metallic effects requires mastering two primary techniques: True Metallic Metal (TMM) and Non-Metallic Metal (NMM), each offering distinct advantages depending on the desired outcome and skill level. TMM uses actual metallic paints containing fine metal flakes to create a realistic shine, while NMM relies on non-metallic paints to simulate metallic surfaces through careful shading and highlighting. For beginners, TMM is often recommended due to its straightforward application, while NMM provides greater artistic flexibility for advanced painters. Key factors in achieving professional results include proper base coating, strategic use of washes and dry brushing, and experimentation with color layering to create depth and texture.

• Best beginner-friendly techniques: Start with TMM using silver or gunmetal paints over a black base coat, followed by dry brushing and washes for definition ^[1][5][6].
• Advanced options: NMM requires precise control of highlights and shadows using non-metallic paints, ideal for creating stylized or hyper-realistic effects ^[1][5].
• Special effects: Achieve weathered or colored metallics by incorporating contrast paints, inks, or glazes (e.g., blue for steel, green for patina) ^[2][3][7].
• Tools and materials: Vallejo Model Air, Citadel Leadbelcher, and Scale75 metallics are frequently recommended, with airbrushing or fine brushes for detail work ^[7][9].

Step-by-Step Techniques for Painting Miniature Armor and Metallics

True Metallic Metal (TMM): Foundational Methods

True Metallic Metal (TMM) is the most accessible approach for beginners, leveraging metallic paints to create realistic armor and weapons. The process begins with a black or dark primer to enhance the metallic sheen, followed by layered applications of metallic paints, washes, and dry brushing to define texture and depth. This method is particularly effective for Warhammer miniatures, historical armor, and fantasy weapons, where a literal metallic finish is desired.

The core steps for TMM include:

• Base coating: Apply a solid layer of metallic paint (e.g., Citadel Leadbelcher or Vallejo Steel) over a black-primed surface. This ensures the metal flakes in the paint reflect light realistically ^[5][6].
• Shading with washes: Use dark washes like Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade to settle into recesses, creating natural shadows. For colored metallics (e.g., blued steel), apply a thin contrast paint (e.g., blue or purple) over silver to tint the surface ^[2][3].
• Dry brushing highlights: Lightly dry brush with a brighter metallic (e.g., Vallejo Silver or Citadel Stormhost Silver) to emphasize edges and raised details. A 50/50 mix of gunmetal and silver works well for intermediate highlights ^[4][7].
• Weathering effects: Add rust or patina using brown/orange paints or green glazes for aged metal. Sponge techniques with gunmetal or streaking grime can simulate battle damage ^[3][5].

For colored metallics, such as gold or brass, the process adapts slightly:

• Start with a brown or leather base coat for gold, then layer with Retributor Armor or similar paints ^[6].
• Wash with brown or purple shades (e.g., Reikland Fleshshade for gold) to deepen shadows, then dry brush with a brighter gold or silver for highlights ^[3][4].
• For brass, glaze with blue-green contrast paints to create a verdigris effect ^[3].

Advanced TMM techniques involve zenithal highlighting, where a white ink or light gray is airbrushed from above before applying metallics. This pre-shading enhances the metallic’s reflectivity, particularly when combined with deep purple or black primers ^[10]. Lyla Mev’s tutorial demonstrates how this method creates vibrant, three-dimensional metallics with minimal effort, ideal for Warhammer models ^[10].

Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) and Specialized Effects

Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) is a technique where non-metallic paints are used to simulate metallic surfaces through careful control of light and shadow. This method is favored for stylized or highly detailed miniatures, such as display pieces or characters where artistic interpretation is prioritized over literal realism. NMM requires a strong understanding of light source placement and gradient blending, making it more challenging for beginners but rewarding for advanced painters.

The NMM process typically follows these stages:

• Base coating: Use a mid-tone color (e.g., gray for steel, brown for gold) as the foundation. The choice depends on the desired metal type and lighting conditions ^[1][5].
• Shading: Apply progressively darker mixes of the base color + black or complementary colors (e.g., blue for steel, purple for gold) to recesses and undersides. The transitions should be smooth to mimic reflected light ^[1].
• Highlighting: Layer lighter mixes of the base color + white or yellow (for gold) to raised edges. The brightest highlights should be reserved for the most prominent edges facing the light source ^[5].
• Final touches: Glaze with transparent colors to refine transitions or add subtle tints (e.g., blue for cold steel, green for oxidized copper) ^[5].

For colored or fantasy metallics, NMM allows for creative freedom:

• Blued steel: Start with a dark gray base, shade with blue-black mixes, and highlight with light gray-blue ^[2].
• Magical weapons: Use iridescent or contrasting colors (e.g., purple shadows on silver) to imply enchanted properties ^[4].
• Rust and weathering: Stipple or sponge orange/brown paints for rust, or use green washes for verdigris on brass ^[3][5].

A hybrid approach combines TMM and NMM for enhanced realism. For example:

• Use TMM for the base metallic layers, then apply NMM techniques to refine highlights and shadows with non-metallic paints. This method leverages the reflective quality of TMM while allowing for more controlled shading ^[1].
• Add color tints with speed paints or inks (e.g., blue or magenta) to TMM surfaces for depth without losing the metallic sheen ^[4][7].

• Clumping or streaky metallics: Thin metallic paints with a medium (e.g., Vallejo Airbrush Medium) and apply in thin layers. Avoid over-brushing, which can misalign metal flakes ^[6][9].
• Loss of shine after varnishing: Use a satin or gloss varnish specifically on metallics to preserve reflectivity, or apply varnish only to non-metallic areas ^[7].
• Overly dark or flat metallics: Ensure sufficient contrast between base, shade, and highlight layers. Zenithal priming or pre-shading can help ^[10].

Recommended Tools and Materials

The choice of paints and tools significantly impacts the quality of metallic effects. Based on community recommendations and tutorials, the following are consistently endorsed:

• Primers: Black (for TMM) or white (for NMM) primers from brands like Vallejo, Citadel, or Stynylrez. Deep purple primers enhance metallic vibrancy ^[10].
• Metallic paints:
• Silver/Steel: Vallejo Metal Color Steel, Citadel Leadbelcher, or Scale75 Heavy Metal.
• Gold: Vallejo Old Gold, Citadel Retributor Armor, or Scale75 Elven Gold.
• Specialty: Vallejo Model Air Metallics (for airbrush or smooth brush application) ^[7][9].
• Washes and inks: Citadel Nuln Oil (for shading), Vallejo Blue Ink (for steel tints), and Army Painter Green Tone (for patina) ^[3][4].
• Brushes: Fine detail brushes (e.g., Winsor & Newton Series 7) for edge highlights, and larger dry brushes for weathering effects ^[8].
• Extras: Sponge (for battle damage), airbrush (for zenithal priming), and gloss varnish (to protect shine) ^[3][7].