Painting battle damage on miniatures transforms standard models into dynamic, battle-worn pieces that tell a story of combat and resilience. The most effective techniques combine practical tools like blister foam, sponges, and fine brushes with strategic layering of colors to simulate chipped paint, scratches, exposed metal, and corrosion. Beginners and experienced painters alike can achieve professional results by focusing on three core methods: chipped paint effects using foam or sponges, scratches and dents with precise brushwork, and weathering details like rust or blood splatter for added realism. These approaches work across materials—plastic, resin, or metal—and require minimal specialized tools beyond basic paints and brushes.

Key findings from the sources include:

• Foam/sponging technique is the most recommended method for creating random paint chips, with blister foam or packaging foam producing authentic patterns when dabbed with dark paint ^[1][2]
• Layered scratches involve applying a dark base line, a silver/metallic mid-line, and a thin black top line to create depth, followed by selective highlighting ^[2][5]
• Weathering vs. battle damage are distinct: weathering shows age (rust, dirt), while battle damage (bullet holes, cuts) often requires pre-paint sculpting or drilling ^[4][5]
• Stippling/drybrushing hybrids offer a no-airbrush alternative for textured damage, particularly effective for armored vehicles or large surfaces ^[3][7]

Step-by-Step Techniques for Miniature Battle Damage

Creating Chipped Paint with Foam or Sponge

The foundation of battle damage lies in simulating chipped paint, where the model’s base color shows through as if scraped away by combat. This technique relies on random pattern application using everyday materials like blister foam (from product packaging) or a stiff sponge. The process begins after the model is fully base-coated and highlighted, ensuring the "chips" reveal the underlying layers realistically.

Key steps and considerations:

• Material selection: Use blister foam (from medication packaging) or high-density sponge cut into small, irregular pieces. Avoid soft sponges, as they create blurred edges ^[1][2].
• Color palette: Prepare three colors:
• Shadow color (e.g., dark brown or black) for the deepest chips
• Midtone (the model’s base color) for exposed areas
• Highlight (lighter than the base) for raised edges ^[1]
• Application process:
• Dip the foam lightly into the shadow color, then dab off excess on a paper towel to avoid blobs.
• Press the foam straight down onto edges and high-wear areas (shoulder pads, knee joints, weapon grips), lifting vertically to create sharp chips ^[2].
• Repeat with the midtone for smaller chips, then use a fine brush to add highlights to the top edges of larger chips ^[1].
• Refinement: Use a size 0 or 00 brush to clean up overly large chips or add metallic paint (e.g., Leadbelcher) to simulate exposed metal in deep gouges ^[6].

This method excels for armored vehicles, power armor, and mechs, where large, flat surfaces accumulate damage. For organic models (e.g., skin, fabric), reduce the chip size and focus on abrasions by lightly stippling with a sponge ^[5].

Scratches, Dents, and Structural Damage

While chipped paint suggests superficial wear, scratches and dents imply deeper structural damage from weapons or impacts. These effects require more controlled brushwork and often incorporate three-dimensional sculpting for realism. The process varies slightly between metallic and non-metallic surfaces but follows a core principle: depth illusion through layered colors.

Brushwork Techniques for Scratches

1. Line hierarchy: Create scratches with three sequential lines: - Base line: A thin, dark color (e.g., Rhinox Hide or black) to define the scratch’s depth. - Mid line: A silver or metallic paint (e.g., Vallejo Metal Color) applied slightly offset to simulate exposed material. - Top line: A fine black or dark brown line above the silver to cast a shadow, enhancing the 3D effect ^[2][5].
2. Directionality: Scratches should follow the direction of impact. For example: - Horizontal scratches on a vehicle’s front from collisions. - Vertical gouges on a shield from sword strikes ^[5].
3. Variation: Mix short, jagged scratches (from shrapnel) with long, smooth gouges (from blades or bullets) ^[4].

Sculpting Structural Damage

For bullet holes, impact craters, or severed limbs, physical modification of the miniature is often necessary:

• Drilling: Use a pin vise or hobby drill to create shallow holes for bullet impacts. Group 3–5 holes closely for a burst-fire effect ^[8].
• Cutting: Remove sections of plastic/resin with a hobby knife or clippers to simulate torn armor or missing limbs. Sand the edges to smooth the cut ^[8].
• Texturing: Apply liquid green stuff or Vallejo texture paste to create raised, damaged edges around holes or cuts ^[6].

Enhancing with Weathering

After structural damage is painted, weathering effects add realism:

• Rust: Apply a mix of orange and brown washes (e.g., Citadel Typhus Corrosion) to metallic edges, then highlight with a drybrush of Ryza Rust ^[2].
• Blood: Use red glaze (e.g., Tamiya Clear Red) for fresh wounds or darker brown for dried blood around cuts ^[5].
• Dirt/grime: Streak dark brown enamel wash (e.g., AK Interactive Streaking Grime) downward from damage sites to simulate dust accumulation ^[6].

Examples by Model Type

• Vehicles: Focus on mud splatter (using Vallejo Brown Mud) and oil leaks (black/green streaks near engines) ^[4].
• Infantry: Prioritize fabric tears (frayed edges with thin black lines) and scuffed boots (drybrushed gray on soles) ^[5].
• Sci-fi armor: Add energy weapon scorch marks with a sponge-dabbed black-to-blue gradient ^[7].