Replacing a sink aerator is a straightforward DIY task that can restore proper water flow and pressure when mineral deposits or debris clog the existing unit. The process typically involves removing the old aerator, inspecting or cleaning its components, and installing a replacement if necessary. Most projects require minimal tools—commonly just pliers, a rag, and potentially vinegar for cleaning—and can be completed in under 30 minutes. The key steps include identifying the correct thread type (male or female), ensuring the water supply is off, and using proper grip techniques to avoid damaging the faucet or aerator threads.

• Essential tools: Pliers (regular or rubber-coated), rag, vinegar, toothbrush, and a replacement aerator if needed ^[3][5]
• Thread types: Aerators come in male (external threads) or female (internal threads) varieties—matching this to your faucet is critical ^[1][7]
• Common issues: Stripped threads or cracked aerators may require a full replacement, available at hardware stores ^[6]
• Safety tip: Always turn off the water supply and cover the drain to prevent small parts from falling in ^[4][9]

Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing a Sink Aerator

Preparation and Removal of the Old Aerator

Before starting, gather your tools and ensure the workspace is clear. Turn off the water supply to the sink—this is typically done via valves under the sink—and open the faucet to release any remaining pressure ^[4]. Cover the drain with a rag or stopper to prevent small parts (like screws or washers) from falling in during the process ^[5]. If the aerator is visibly corroded or hasn’t been removed in years, penetrating oil (like WD-40) may help loosen it ^[3].

Most aerators can be removed by hand if they haven’t seized due to mineral buildup. If gripping by hand fails, use pliers:

• Wrap the aerator with a rag to protect its finish from scratches ^[3][9]
• Use rubber-coated pliers if available to improve grip without damaging the metal ^[5]
• For stubborn aerators, apply heat with a hairdryer for 1–2 minutes to expand the metal slightly, then try twisting again ^[3]
• Turn counterclockwise (lefty-loosey) to unscrew—most aerators use standard threading, but some European models may reverse this ^[1]

If the aerator still won’t budge, the threads may be stripped or corroded. In this case:

• Inspect the faucet’s threads for damage. Stripped threads mean you’ll need a thread repair kit or a new faucet ^[6]
• Cracked aerators should be discarded and replaced entirely, as they cannot be reliably resealed ^[7]

Cleaning vs. Replacing the Aerator

Once removed, disassemble the aerator by separating the housing, screen, and any internal washers or filters. Soak the parts in white vinegar for 15–30 minutes to dissolve mineral deposits, then scrub with a toothbrush or stiff-bristled brush ^[3][9]. For heavy buildup, a lime-dissolving solution (like CLR) may be more effective, but rinse thoroughly afterward to avoid chemical residue ^[3].

Key signs that cleaning won’t suffice and a replacement is needed:

• Visible cracks in the aerator housing or screen ^[6]
• Thread damage that prevents a snug fit when reinstalled ^[7]
• Persistent low water pressure after cleaning, indicating internal corrosion ^[4]

When selecting a replacement aerator:

• Bring the old aerator to a hardware store to match the thread type (male/female) and size (most are 15/16" or 55/64" diameter) ^[1][7]
• Opt for metal aerators over plastic for durability, especially in hard water areas ^[5]
• Apply a thin layer of silicone grease to the new aerator’s threads to prevent seizing and leaks ^[1]

To install the new aerator:

1. Align the threads and turn clockwise by hand until snug—avoid overtightening ^[4]
2. Use pliers only if necessary to tighten the final quarter-turn, again protecting the finish with a rag ^[9]
3. Turn the water supply back on and test for leaks. If leaks occur, the aerator may not be seated correctly or the threads may be misaligned ^[1]