When your washing machine won't drain, the issue typically stems from blockages, mechanical failures, or electrical problems. Start with basic troubleshooting like checking for clogs in the drain hose or pump filter, as these account for 90% of cases ^[9]. For front-loading machines, focus on the drainage pump filter and U-bend, while top-loaders often require inspection of the drain hose and pump assembly. Safety is critical: always unplug the machine and turn off the water supply before attempting repairs ^[1][9].

Key immediate actions:

• Manually drain the machine using a bucket or wet/dry vacuum to prevent water damage ^[2][8]
• Inspect the drain hose for kinks, clogs, or improper positioning ^[4][7]
• Clean the pump filter (commonly located at the front bottom of the machine) ^[3][4]
• Test the lid switch (for top-loaders) or reset the machine if no mechanical issues are found ^[4][7]

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting and Fixes

Diagnosing and Clearing Blockages

Blockages in the drainage system are the most frequent cause of washing machine drainage failures, with small objects like coins, bra wires, or lint being primary culprits ^[4][9]. Begin by examining the drain hose, which connects the machine to your home’s plumbing. A kinked or improperly positioned hose (e.g., inserted too far into the standpipe) can prevent water from flowing out ^[7]. Lay the hose flat on the floor to test drainage—if water flows slowly or not at all, a clog is likely present ^[9].

For deeper blockages:

• Remove the drain hose from the machine and standpipe, then flush it with hot water to dislodge debris ^[1]. Use a plumber’s snake if the clog persists ^[4].
• Access the pump filter (usually behind a small panel at the front bottom of front-loaders). Place a towel beneath to catch water, then twist the filter counterclockwise to remove and clean it ^[1][3]. In top-loaders, the pump may require partial disassembly to access ^[2].
• Check the U-bend (if applicable) beneath the machine for trapped items. This is a common oversight in front-loading models ^[1].
• Inspect the impeller (a small fan-like component in the pump) for obstructions. If it doesn’t spin freely, debris may be lodged in the pump mechanism ^[9].

After clearing blockages, run a hot wash cycle without clothes to flush residual debris from the system ^[1]. If the machine still won’t drain, proceed to mechanical checks.

Mechanical and Electrical Checks

If blockages aren’t the issue, focus on the machine’s mechanical and electrical components. Start with the lid switch (top-loaders only), a safety feature that prevents draining if the lid is open. Test it by pressing the switch manually—if you don’t hear a click, it may be faulty and require replacement ^[4][7]. For front-loaders, ensure the door is fully latched, as modern models won’t drain unless the door is securely closed.

Next, evaluate the drain pump:

• Listen for humming noises during the drain cycle. A hum without water movement suggests a jammed pump impeller ^[2].
• Test the pump’s voltage using a multimeter (set to 120V AC). No reading indicates a faulty pump or wiring issue ^[2].
• Replace the pump if it’s damaged or non-functional. Universal pumps are available for most models, but consult your manual for compatibility ^[2].

Other potential mechanical issues:

• Broken or loose drive belt: Inspect the belt connecting the motor to the pump. If it’s frayed or slack, it may need adjustment or replacement ^[5].
• Faulty water level control: This sensor regulates drainage based on load size. If malfunctioning, the machine may not initiate draining ^[4].
• Control board errors: Reset the machine by unplugging it for 5 minutes. If the issue recurs, the control board may need professional attention ^[6].

For persistent problems, consider whether the issue is appliance-related or plumbing-related. If water backs up into the machine after draining, the home’s drainpipe may be clogged—a plumber’s snake or professional help is recommended ^[6]. Conversely, if the machine drains slowly but consistently, the problem likely lies within the appliance itself.